This is Chèvrefeuille, a pasteurized goat's milk cheese from the Fromagerie Chèvrefeuille in Saint-Cyprien, right in the heart of the Périgord in southwest France. It's one of those small-format chèvres that does a lot with very little, a wrinkly bloomy rind wrapped around a paste that's somewhere between creamy and fudgy depending on how ripe the wheel is when you get to it.

The rind is that classic geotrichum wrinkle, soft and a little mushroomy, and it ripens the cheese from the outside in. Younger wheels stay a touch chalky in the center with a creamy line under the rind, riper ones go almost fully smooth and fudgy across the paste. Flavor is gentle and bright, sour cream and fresh bread dough up front, a clean lactic tang in the middle, and a soft finish that doesn't push any goaty funk. It's a polished, award-winning chèvre that reads as elegant rather than rustic.

This is the kind of goat cheese to reach for when you want the tang without the barnyard, and it's perfectly ripe right now.