Cabricharme is a raw goat's milk washed-rind cheese from Belgium, aged about three months in damp cellars where the rind is repeatedly washed in brine. That work at the surface is what gives the cheese its sticky, salmon-pink rind and most of its character.

The paste underneath stays semi-soft and smooth, fresh and milky and clean in the way a good young goat's milk cheese should be. The rind brings the savory pull, yeasty, meaty, with a dry-aged-beef quality and a quiet sweetness of honey and toasted hazelnut underneath. Not so harsh as some goat's milk cheeses can be, but really cleanly done. The contrast between the creamy interior and the funkier washed rind is the whole point, and at three months it sits right in the sweet spot.