Emmentaler comes from the Emmental valley in Switzerland, the original 'Swiss cheese' and the one every other holey cheese is trying to be. Made from raw cow's milk and aged on its natural rind, this is the real Alpine recipe, not the deli-counter imitation.

The paste is pale yellow, semi-hard, and dotted with those big round 'eyes' that come from propionic fermentation during aging. It cuts cleanly, with a buttery give that turns smooth on the tongue. The flavor leads with hazelnut and toasted almond, sits on a soft brown-butter sweetness, and finishes with a quiet pull of meadow grass and fresh cream. Mild, yes, but mild the way good Alpine cheese is mild, with layers underneath if you slow down for them.

This is the cheese to reach for when you want something everyone at the table will eat and the cheese person will still respect. Melts beautifully, slices clean for a sandwich, and shines on a board with a little honey and a glass of Riesling.